Sombre sightseeing

Phnom Penh is home to Tuol Sleng (S21) - the former school used by the Khmer Rouge to carry out some of the most inhumane acts of torture and murder imaginable, and of course the Killing Fields. Not the most pleasent of site-seeing but both James & I felt it necessary to understand how it has shaped the Cambodian culture of today. The tension in the air at S21 is highly charged. Walking around it was easy to imagine the building's original purpose, children happily hurrying about corridors and stairwells, however its recent use as an  interrogation and torture prison filled the air with death and destruction. Evidence was everywhere, from the blood staining of the floor tiles, Khmer Rouge rules of conduct chalked on the blackboards, the tiny cells created within the buildings, not to mention the horrificly graphic photographs.

We took a 15km cycle ride to the Killing Fields in the stinking heat through the city traffic (which is in one word..... mayhem, everything in any direction all at the same time, quite exhilarating if a little scary). We witnessed the excavated mass graves, one holding 450 people in only 4x8 meters. Towers of skulls and clothing from the victims continually surfacing from the ground with each rainfall. However it was a tree that struck me the strongest. It was used to kill children - they were held by their ankles then swung towards the tree smashing their skulls against the trunk. The tree itself seemed to be express an air of sombre in its branches, as if it had witnessed too much human tragedy in its lifetime. So with a desire to find more uplifting pastures we headed swiftly off to Kampot.

Freshly caught crabs at Kep's market

Kampot is a small fishing village with the destruction from the Khmer Rouge rule still visible in the ruined buildings. Despite the destruction of the past people here are happy and running fruitful businesses. We enjoyed some local delicacies such as fresh crab and shrimp from the market down the road in Kep, cooked to order steamed over hot coals!

Kampot is famous for its pepper. I have been informed that once upon a time no self-respecting French restaurant would be up to standards if it didn't serve Kampot pepper. Believe me it is truly brilliant, pepper has not tasted the same since we left. We took a motorbike and visited a pepper plantation (which also doubles up as a yoga retreat, fully equipped with eco swimming pool) where we enjoyed lunch in a beautifully designed building overlooking the pepper plants and learnt that white green and pink pepper all comes from the same plant. The corns are most delicious straight from the plant, however deliver a strong and fiery kick!

James wincing after a strong peppercorn